Back in Rome and Naples
Armando al Pantheon is back to being my favorite restaurant in Rome. The food is simply delicious. November sees puntarelle, that quintessential Roman green, on the table with its tangy anchovy dressing. Or begin with a warm artichoke and a boule of fresh mozzarella. And this time I tried spaghetti with a salt cod sauce - tasty and unusual. Armando's lovely almond torta is a yummy and light dessert.The restaurant now has its own cookbook, which is a history of the restaurant and its family members as well. At the moment it is only available in Italian. The Italians once again outnumber the tourists, a sight that always pleases me. It is necessary to reserve several days in advance.
In Naples I ate in two restaurants new to me. Osteria della Mattonella is a simple, unaffected, and full of people place. It is diifficult to find, but persist and you will be rewarded by very good food and a true local ambiance. The queues wind down the street so be sure to reserve. While you are wandering around towards the restaurant you will pass homes of both the better-off and the poor. Do not be put off. Naples' neighborhoods are quite mixed. I began with a mixed fry of eggplant, potatoes and mozzarella, followed by shrimp, squid and anchovies. And ended with a rum baba, one of Naples' favorite pastries, which came to Italy from Poland (babka) via France.
More elegant was Osteria da Antonio, which specializes in local seafood - marinated fresh anchovies, salmon and swordfish as a starter, or have a plate of grilled vegetables, followed by fried shrimp and squid, or pasta con vogole, and finish with a slice of local provolone.
Pasta con Vogole
In France I buy coques (cockles), which is what da Antonio uses, but you can use small clams or tellines. Whatever you use soak the shellfish for several hours in the refrigerator in salted water. In a casserole, sauté a sliced garlic clove (or two), and the equivalent of one large tomato, skinned and chopped - I use about 8 unskinned cherry tomatoes - and some chili flakes in olive oil. Add the cockles, well-rinsed and drained, to the pan, Cook covered over a medium high heat until the shellfish have opened - throw away any that have remained closed. In the meantime you should have cooked your spaghetti al dente. Drain, add to the sauce, and toss well. Serve. Quantities - up to you. Allow about 80 to 90 grams of dried pasta per person and as many cockles as you wish.
Sunday, January 24, 2016
Saturday, October 31, 2015
In London town hunting for a real hot pastrami sandwich. And I found it at Monty's Deli, rather hidden away in Southwark at 76 Druid Street. Monty's director, Owen Barratt, knows the New York food scene, The food is good New York Jewish, although not kosher. The pastrami sandwich, heaped high with meat, coleslaw and slices of pickle, was delicious and brought back memories of the Second Avenue Deli. I had the small sandwich - who can eat the large? Apparently pastrami is American and salt beef, which Monty's also serves, is European. Everything is made and cooked on the premises -latkes, chicken liver spread on rye bread, and other yummy memories. Monty's is a large space; tables are to be shared. Not to be missed. And almost next door a bread bakery opens its doors to the public on the weekends.
Sunday, April 26, 2015
And Back in Avignon
On the Place des Corps Saints is L'Atelier des Thés, a small, unprepossesing restaurant - its terrace has more space than does its interior - that serves excellent and imaginative food - everything made in the restaurant's kitchen by Belinda - for a modest price. Best to reserve.
And not far away, on the rue des 3 Faucons, is Le Fou de Fafa. An informal but rather elegant restaurant owned and run by an English couple - he in the kitchen and she in the front of house. Excellent service and delicious, creative food. The restaurant is only open in the evenings and you must reserve.
On the Place des Corps Saints is L'Atelier des Thés, a small, unprepossesing restaurant - its terrace has more space than does its interior - that serves excellent and imaginative food - everything made in the restaurant's kitchen by Belinda - for a modest price. Best to reserve.
And not far away, on the rue des 3 Faucons, is Le Fou de Fafa. An informal but rather elegant restaurant owned and run by an English couple - he in the kitchen and she in the front of house. Excellent service and delicious, creative food. The restaurant is only open in the evenings and you must reserve.
Saturday, April 11, 2015
Around the World in London
London is far more an international city than Paris is, at least as far as food. The French are not fond of food that is too spicy, and they can often be very particular about what is on their plates. But the English, well known for not wanting to eat frogs' legs, snails, and such, are ready to eat food from any country in the world.
I began, as always, at Masala Zone, Everyman's Indian restaurant. Consistent, tasty and good value. You can read more about the Masala Zone restaurants in an earlier blog. And then ate three times at Dumplings' Legend in Soho's chinatown. The restaurant has come up in the world; there were pictures on the wall of Prince Charles and his Duchess at the restaurant.
Then off I went to Turkey to Hazev, just across the water from Canary Wharf, on Discovery Dock West. Not quite like eating in Istanbul, where I tasted dishes from the menu for the circumcision festivities of the Sultan's son, but still good. There were three of us so we started with mezes, all very enjoyable, and added a plate of grilled meats. We passed on the raw lamb's liver, a dish very popular in Turkey. Dessert was an excellent baklava. The restaurant is rather elegant, with its white tablecloths and quiet, professional service.
Then off to Poland, to Dacquise, on Thurloe Street right next to the South Kensington tube station. What a wonderful restaurant. The atmosphere is unaffected, the service is friendly and attentive, and the food is delicious.. I ate my beloved pierogis, ravoli stuffed with cabbage, or mashed potatoes, or ground meat, or cheese. They are served to you, covered with melted butter and sauteed bits of onion, hot from the pan. Really that would have been enough, but I went on to order the poached chicken breast - what a big, fat chicken he or she was - served in broth with vegetables and homemade spatzle-like noodles, and a lemon sauce. And dessert was pancakes stuffed with a ricotta-like cheese.
None of these restaurants is supposed to be expensive; lunch for two, with a glass of wine, is about 80£. That is not inexpensive to me.
And London's best secret - I have been going to London for more than forty years - and only recently did I discover Borough Market, which is situated right next to Southwark Cathedral, parts of which
are very old, although restored.
The market meanders about - the tube stop is London Bridge - through several covered buildings and some exterior stalls. Go when you are hungry and lunch here and there in the market. In an outside stall I ate a yummy dosa - a lentil flour crepe stuffed with masala potatoes and served with chickpeas, yorgurt and a kind of crunchy noodle. There are sections devoted to fruit, seafood, herbs and spices, meats, grains, chillis, cheese, breads, everything. Have England's answer to a hot pastrami sandwich. Try a market paella. And do not miss visiting Richard Bramble's pottery stall. Top quality porcelain decorated with Mr. Bramble's watercolor designs of farmyard animals, seafood, and shellfish. The salt pig is cunning, with its three lovely lady pigs running around the bottom.
London is far more an international city than Paris is, at least as far as food. The French are not fond of food that is too spicy, and they can often be very particular about what is on their plates. But the English, well known for not wanting to eat frogs' legs, snails, and such, are ready to eat food from any country in the world.
I began, as always, at Masala Zone, Everyman's Indian restaurant. Consistent, tasty and good value. You can read more about the Masala Zone restaurants in an earlier blog. And then ate three times at Dumplings' Legend in Soho's chinatown. The restaurant has come up in the world; there were pictures on the wall of Prince Charles and his Duchess at the restaurant.
Then off I went to Turkey to Hazev, just across the water from Canary Wharf, on Discovery Dock West. Not quite like eating in Istanbul, where I tasted dishes from the menu for the circumcision festivities of the Sultan's son, but still good. There were three of us so we started with mezes, all very enjoyable, and added a plate of grilled meats. We passed on the raw lamb's liver, a dish very popular in Turkey. Dessert was an excellent baklava. The restaurant is rather elegant, with its white tablecloths and quiet, professional service.
Then off to Poland, to Dacquise, on Thurloe Street right next to the South Kensington tube station. What a wonderful restaurant. The atmosphere is unaffected, the service is friendly and attentive, and the food is delicious.. I ate my beloved pierogis, ravoli stuffed with cabbage, or mashed potatoes, or ground meat, or cheese. They are served to you, covered with melted butter and sauteed bits of onion, hot from the pan. Really that would have been enough, but I went on to order the poached chicken breast - what a big, fat chicken he or she was - served in broth with vegetables and homemade spatzle-like noodles, and a lemon sauce. And dessert was pancakes stuffed with a ricotta-like cheese.
None of these restaurants is supposed to be expensive; lunch for two, with a glass of wine, is about 80£. That is not inexpensive to me.
And London's best secret - I have been going to London for more than forty years - and only recently did I discover Borough Market, which is situated right next to Southwark Cathedral, parts of which
are very old, although restored.
The market meanders about - the tube stop is London Bridge - through several covered buildings and some exterior stalls. Go when you are hungry and lunch here and there in the market. In an outside stall I ate a yummy dosa - a lentil flour crepe stuffed with masala potatoes and served with chickpeas, yorgurt and a kind of crunchy noodle. There are sections devoted to fruit, seafood, herbs and spices, meats, grains, chillis, cheese, breads, everything. Have England's answer to a hot pastrami sandwich. Try a market paella. And do not miss visiting Richard Bramble's pottery stall. Top quality porcelain decorated with Mr. Bramble's watercolor designs of farmyard animals, seafood, and shellfish. The salt pig is cunning, with its three lovely lady pigs running around the bottom.
Thursday, March 19, 2015
Gourmet Feast in Barcelona
The sun, the sea, the Gothic Quarter, Gaudi, Modernism, Miro, Picasso, all of these plus delicious food. Just back from a few days eating in traditional restaurants serving Catalan food.
The least crowded, but with delicious food, was Agut, founded in 1924, on the Carrer d'En Gignàs, just behind the main post office.The escalivada was exceptional, with a few Agut touches. Grilled vegetables - sweet red peppers and eggplant - with sliced potatoes, sprinkled with pine nuts and slivers of fresh black truffle, served at room temperature all with a light wash of olive oil. Suquet followed, a thick soup/stew of monkfish and potatoes.
Suquet
Brown 1 kilo of monkfish, cut into small pieces and lightly floured and sprinkled with salt and freshly ground black pepper, in olive oil until browned. Add 2 cloves of garlic, minced, and 9 tablespoons of cognac. Set the cognac afire and when the flame has subsided add 2 tablespoons of Italian parsley, minced, In another pan fry 1 onion, minced, and 2 peeled, seeded and chopped ripe tomatoes, until soft. Add this to the fish, along with 1 kilo of peeled, thickly sliced potatoes. Cover with fish stock and cook for about 15 minutes. Mash in a mortar 1 slice of Italian or French bread, fried in olive oil until well browned, 2 cloves of garlic, minced, and 12 peeled and roasted almonds, and enough olive oil to make a paste. Add the paste to the fish and potatoes. Serve hot. (Thank you Colman Andrews)
To make the fish stock boil fish bones and heads in white wine and water with a celery stalk, an onion, and a carrot. Reduce and then add salt and pepper. Strain before using.
Another dinner was at Siete Puertas, on the Passeig Isabel II near the port. The restaurant opened in 1836 and was, once upon a time, a cantine for Picasso. It is now an elegant restaurant specializing in fish dishes. Its paellas are outstanding. They are made with proper round grain rice that remains slightly chewy. The Rich Man's Paella combines shellfish, already shelled, and chicken. For dessert have the crema catalana, The atmosphere here is lively and there is a mix of locals and tourists. Reservations are difficult to come by and the restaurant is always full. You can just drop by and hope.
The third restaurant is Casa Leopoldo, located in a red light district on the Carrer de Sant Rafael. In fact the neighborhood is not inviting. A friend, a former ambassador from Belgium, took one look at the surroundings and refused to go into the restaurant. Silly. From Roman times Barcelona was surrounded by a wall. Prostitutes were only allowed to ply their trade outside the wall and Casa Leopoldo is outside the lines of the old wall. The wall went but the ladies of the evening, as my father called them, stayed. The set menu, only available for 2 people, or 4, etcetera, begins with several dishes - deep fried small fish and squid, anchovies, garlic and tomato smeared toast, (a Catalan national dish), tasty with the anchovies on top, assorted olives, salted cod with very thinly sliced fried potatoes and scrambled eggs (bacalao "Bras,"), and salt cod fritters. For a main course I had meatballs with cuttlefish and prawns in a Romesco sauce. Casa Leopoldo is also known for its oxtail stew. Dessert with the menu was a refreshing lemon sorbet and a sort of nut cake. The menu includes a glass of wine and coffee.
Romesco sauce. Soak two "nyoras" (small, round, not too hot dried chillis - a substitute might be an ancho chilli - in warm water for half an hour. Peel one head of garlic and remove the germ. Peel 2 uncooked tomatoes and 1 grilled tomato. In a food processor put the soaked chillis, seeded, the garlic, tomatoes, and 150 grams of peeled, toasted almonds. When smooth add 1 teaspoon of wine vinegar, 2 cups of extra virgin olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. The sauce can be thinned with white wine and/or broth. You can then serve the meat balls in the sauce, or serve the Romesco with grilled fish.
None of these restaurants is inexpensive - dinner will cost between 35 and 50 euros with a glass of wine. Don't forget that, as in Italy, there is a charge for bread, and only bottled water is served.
Dining hours take getting used to. Lunch in these good restaurants starts at 13:30 and goes to 16:30. Dinner begins at 20:30 and that is mostly for foreigners. Siete Puertas starts buzzing around 22h.
If you are feeling poor you can eat yummy Argentinian empanadillas in a little street not far from the Picasso museum around the corner from the Jaume I metro station. I especially liked the one stuffed with chopped chicken breast, fresh pineapple and hot green pepper.
If you are poor and hungry at an improper time go to the Quinze Nits (15 Lice) - (this must be a wordplay on els 4 Gats, so popular in Picasso's time) in the Plaça Reial. It is open all day long and does not accept reservations. I was not carried away by the food but my friend was very happy with her dinner.
The most fun of all in Barcelona is a visit to the Boqueria market just off La Rambla. Glorious food of all sorts, fabulously fresh fish and shellfish, little restaurants where you can sit at the counter and eat amidst the bustle. Just wonderful. The best covered market I have ever visited.
Everyone has heard of Gaudi, but have you heard of Lluis Domènech i Montaner, another imaginative, creative Catalan architect, whose works include the Palau de la Musica Catalana, a wonderful structure built and still used as a concert hall. Well worth a visit, and there are no wandering hoards of tourists, for most people do not even know that the building exists.
The sun, the sea, the Gothic Quarter, Gaudi, Modernism, Miro, Picasso, all of these plus delicious food. Just back from a few days eating in traditional restaurants serving Catalan food.
The least crowded, but with delicious food, was Agut, founded in 1924, on the Carrer d'En Gignàs, just behind the main post office.The escalivada was exceptional, with a few Agut touches. Grilled vegetables - sweet red peppers and eggplant - with sliced potatoes, sprinkled with pine nuts and slivers of fresh black truffle, served at room temperature all with a light wash of olive oil. Suquet followed, a thick soup/stew of monkfish and potatoes.
Suquet
Brown 1 kilo of monkfish, cut into small pieces and lightly floured and sprinkled with salt and freshly ground black pepper, in olive oil until browned. Add 2 cloves of garlic, minced, and 9 tablespoons of cognac. Set the cognac afire and when the flame has subsided add 2 tablespoons of Italian parsley, minced, In another pan fry 1 onion, minced, and 2 peeled, seeded and chopped ripe tomatoes, until soft. Add this to the fish, along with 1 kilo of peeled, thickly sliced potatoes. Cover with fish stock and cook for about 15 minutes. Mash in a mortar 1 slice of Italian or French bread, fried in olive oil until well browned, 2 cloves of garlic, minced, and 12 peeled and roasted almonds, and enough olive oil to make a paste. Add the paste to the fish and potatoes. Serve hot. (Thank you Colman Andrews)
To make the fish stock boil fish bones and heads in white wine and water with a celery stalk, an onion, and a carrot. Reduce and then add salt and pepper. Strain before using.
Another dinner was at Siete Puertas, on the Passeig Isabel II near the port. The restaurant opened in 1836 and was, once upon a time, a cantine for Picasso. It is now an elegant restaurant specializing in fish dishes. Its paellas are outstanding. They are made with proper round grain rice that remains slightly chewy. The Rich Man's Paella combines shellfish, already shelled, and chicken. For dessert have the crema catalana, The atmosphere here is lively and there is a mix of locals and tourists. Reservations are difficult to come by and the restaurant is always full. You can just drop by and hope.
The third restaurant is Casa Leopoldo, located in a red light district on the Carrer de Sant Rafael. In fact the neighborhood is not inviting. A friend, a former ambassador from Belgium, took one look at the surroundings and refused to go into the restaurant. Silly. From Roman times Barcelona was surrounded by a wall. Prostitutes were only allowed to ply their trade outside the wall and Casa Leopoldo is outside the lines of the old wall. The wall went but the ladies of the evening, as my father called them, stayed. The set menu, only available for 2 people, or 4, etcetera, begins with several dishes - deep fried small fish and squid, anchovies, garlic and tomato smeared toast, (a Catalan national dish), tasty with the anchovies on top, assorted olives, salted cod with very thinly sliced fried potatoes and scrambled eggs (bacalao "Bras,"), and salt cod fritters. For a main course I had meatballs with cuttlefish and prawns in a Romesco sauce. Casa Leopoldo is also known for its oxtail stew. Dessert with the menu was a refreshing lemon sorbet and a sort of nut cake. The menu includes a glass of wine and coffee.
Romesco sauce. Soak two "nyoras" (small, round, not too hot dried chillis - a substitute might be an ancho chilli - in warm water for half an hour. Peel one head of garlic and remove the germ. Peel 2 uncooked tomatoes and 1 grilled tomato. In a food processor put the soaked chillis, seeded, the garlic, tomatoes, and 150 grams of peeled, toasted almonds. When smooth add 1 teaspoon of wine vinegar, 2 cups of extra virgin olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. The sauce can be thinned with white wine and/or broth. You can then serve the meat balls in the sauce, or serve the Romesco with grilled fish.
None of these restaurants is inexpensive - dinner will cost between 35 and 50 euros with a glass of wine. Don't forget that, as in Italy, there is a charge for bread, and only bottled water is served.
Dining hours take getting used to. Lunch in these good restaurants starts at 13:30 and goes to 16:30. Dinner begins at 20:30 and that is mostly for foreigners. Siete Puertas starts buzzing around 22h.
If you are feeling poor you can eat yummy Argentinian empanadillas in a little street not far from the Picasso museum around the corner from the Jaume I metro station. I especially liked the one stuffed with chopped chicken breast, fresh pineapple and hot green pepper.
If you are poor and hungry at an improper time go to the Quinze Nits (15 Lice) - (this must be a wordplay on els 4 Gats, so popular in Picasso's time) in the Plaça Reial. It is open all day long and does not accept reservations. I was not carried away by the food but my friend was very happy with her dinner.
The most fun of all in Barcelona is a visit to the Boqueria market just off La Rambla. Glorious food of all sorts, fabulously fresh fish and shellfish, little restaurants where you can sit at the counter and eat amidst the bustle. Just wonderful. The best covered market I have ever visited.
Everyone has heard of Gaudi, but have you heard of Lluis Domènech i Montaner, another imaginative, creative Catalan architect, whose works include the Palau de la Musica Catalana, a wonderful structure built and still used as a concert hall. Well worth a visit, and there are no wandering hoards of tourists, for most people do not even know that the building exists.
Tuesday, November 25, 2014
In the Eternal City Again
I discovered a delicious little restaurant just around the corner from the Campo di Fiori at 53 via del Pellegrino - the Cantina Lucifero. Just 28 people can fit in here. I ate there 3 nights in a row. Fresh tagliatelle with fresh porcini mushrooms - one night I had this dish with slivers of fresh white truffle from Alba, fragrant and with a sublime taste, and homemade ravioli of fresh spinach and ricotta. There are also meat dishes and the restaurant's speciality, various cheese fondues. Ask Francesco, who runs the restaurant, for his advice on wine. In this neighborhood you find a mix of tourists and locals and this holds for the Cantina as well. The staff is friendly and helpful and multilingual. Open only in the evenings 7 days a week.The parent restaurant, the Locanda Lucifero, is on a parallel street.
For breakfast, because I had rented a small flat, I walked to the Campo and ate at Obicà, a trendsetting mozzarella bar that also makes pizza, salads and other dishes. You never know what is inside an Italian croissant: sometimes jam, sometimes chocolate. And splendid coffee. There are three kinds of mozzarella to be had - delicate, intense or smoked. All the salads, for a small additional sum, can be enhanced with your choice of DOP mozzarella.
Off to the Vatican to visit the scavi, the underground archeological ruins. First, into what remains of Constantine's basilica and then down into the lowest level, into the Roman mausoleums, many of which have mosaics and frescos, a whole city of the dead. And most moving of all there is the tomb of St. Peter, whose bones have been gathered into a small plexiglass box. I found the visit to be a moving experience, regardless of belief. You have to reserve on the internet in advance for a guided visit.
Tagliatelle ai funghi porcini as prepared at the Cantina.
For 4 people
Sauté 600 grams of fresh porcini, cut into small pieces or slivers, in 3 T. of extra virgin olive oil, with 1 minced clove of garlic. When the mushrooms and garlic are soft (do not let the garlic brown, or it will be bitter), add 4 T. of freshly chopped Italian parsley. Cook 360 grams of fresh tagliatelle egg pasta, and when al dente, drain, and toss with the porcini sauce. Pass freshly grated parmesan to garnish. Simple and delicious.
Puntarelle in Salsa d'Acciughe
It's Puntarelle season again. Puntarelle is a kind of chicory; you can see not so young ladies cleaning it and stripping it of its outer leaves at the Campo di Fiori market every morning. I have never seen Puntarelle except in Rome. So if you, too, cannot find it where you live, you can use Belgian endives, or curly endive, or radicchio. This is a very Roman salad.
Put one head of cleaned Puntarelle into a bowl and mix with the following dressing, which you can puree by mashing with a fork, or by using a robot or blender.
3 anchovy fillets - I prefer to use salted ones that I desalt by soaking in water for half an hour and then cleaning. But if that is too fiddly use canned anchovies in olive oil.
2 cloves garlic - peeled, core removed, and minced
3 T. white wine vinegar
4 T. extra virgin olive oil
According to David Downing, in the past, chopped hard-boiled eggs were added to the salad.
For breakfast, because I had rented a small flat, I walked to the Campo and ate at Obicà, a trendsetting mozzarella bar that also makes pizza, salads and other dishes. You never know what is inside an Italian croissant: sometimes jam, sometimes chocolate. And splendid coffee. There are three kinds of mozzarella to be had - delicate, intense or smoked. All the salads, for a small additional sum, can be enhanced with your choice of DOP mozzarella.
Off to the Vatican to visit the scavi, the underground archeological ruins. First, into what remains of Constantine's basilica and then down into the lowest level, into the Roman mausoleums, many of which have mosaics and frescos, a whole city of the dead. And most moving of all there is the tomb of St. Peter, whose bones have been gathered into a small plexiglass box. I found the visit to be a moving experience, regardless of belief. You have to reserve on the internet in advance for a guided visit.
Tagliatelle ai funghi porcini as prepared at the Cantina.
For 4 people
Sauté 600 grams of fresh porcini, cut into small pieces or slivers, in 3 T. of extra virgin olive oil, with 1 minced clove of garlic. When the mushrooms and garlic are soft (do not let the garlic brown, or it will be bitter), add 4 T. of freshly chopped Italian parsley. Cook 360 grams of fresh tagliatelle egg pasta, and when al dente, drain, and toss with the porcini sauce. Pass freshly grated parmesan to garnish. Simple and delicious.
Puntarelle in Salsa d'Acciughe
It's Puntarelle season again. Puntarelle is a kind of chicory; you can see not so young ladies cleaning it and stripping it of its outer leaves at the Campo di Fiori market every morning. I have never seen Puntarelle except in Rome. So if you, too, cannot find it where you live, you can use Belgian endives, or curly endive, or radicchio. This is a very Roman salad.
Put one head of cleaned Puntarelle into a bowl and mix with the following dressing, which you can puree by mashing with a fork, or by using a robot or blender.
3 anchovy fillets - I prefer to use salted ones that I desalt by soaking in water for half an hour and then cleaning. But if that is too fiddly use canned anchovies in olive oil.
2 cloves garlic - peeled, core removed, and minced
3 T. white wine vinegar
4 T. extra virgin olive oil
According to David Downing, in the past, chopped hard-boiled eggs were added to the salad.
Sunday, January 12, 2014
Irresistible Istanbul
What a wonderful city; what friendly, helpful and tolerant people.
Where to stay: I stay at the Valide Sultan Konagi, a 17 room hotel of charm. In Ottoman times the Valide Sultan was the name of the sultan's mother. The staff is always ready to help you. The rooms are small, but beautifully kept. The last time I stayed here my room was in the shadow of Saint Sophia, which was just outside my window. The delicious breakfast is copious and interesting and included in the room price. The hotel restaurant serves simple, but often delicious food; try the stuffed vegetables. The filled eggpant, or imam bayaldi - translated as the imam fainted because the dish was so delicious - is indeed very tasty.
Where to eat: To note - food in Istanbul is not overpriced, but wine is. My favorite restaurant is Asitane, away from the center. The restaurant serves traditional Ottoman food, often based on recipes for dishes served in 1539 at the circumcision of the son of Sultan Süleyman. The meze, or first courses, are delicious, carefully prepared and beautifully served - I began with fava bean purée (hummus) and creamed cheese Turkish cuisine, like the cuisine of ancient Rome, often serves fruit with meat. Try the quince stuffed with lamb. Desserts are sublime.
For excellent meze and fish, but not always pleasant service, Balikci Sabahattin in Sultanahmet is a good choice. When I was there with an English speaker the waiters were polite, but when I was there with a French friend, and we were speaking French, the waiters were very rude. The grilled sea bass and rice with mussels are very good.
In one of the hans near the Grand Bazaar, I ate in a tiny restaurant that served only fresh, batter fried anchovies and large, light crepes stuffed with herbs and spinach. The drink was ayran, a yogurt drink that I like but that may not be to everyone's taste. Unfortunately the restaurant had no name. You will have to follow your nose. About 5€ for lunch.
Another inexpensive and always crowded spot, especially at lunch time, near Saint Sophia, is Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi, where you eat köfte - lamb meatballs - white beans, rice and salad. Yummy and inexpensive.
Hamdi, filled with both locals and tourists - large wandering Japanese groups who would not touch their desserts - from its top floor overlooks the Bosphorus and the Galeta Tower. Enjoy the many sorts of kebabs, especially the one of ground lamb with pistachios. The baklava is exceptionally good. The tablecloths are white and the waiters are professional and helpful.
Where to shop: I cannot stay away from the Spice, also known as the Egyptian, Bazaar. I go there everyday just to inhale the smells and to look about me. All kinds of spices and food products are on sale.
The Grand Bazaar is fun, too, but the prices can be exaggerated. For Turkish carpets go to Adnan and Hasan, whose owner speaks perfect English. Do NOT bargain here. The store only sells good quality merchandise.
Food and ceramics are my two weaknesses.
For the best Turkish Delight, or lokum, go to Haci Bekir; there are two locations, one near the New Mosque, near the Spice Bazaar, and the other in Beyoglu.
For beautiful ceramics, often real Iznik, and sometimes just copies of Iznik designs, you cannot go wrong at Fettah, just across from the restaurant Asitane. Look at the beautiful work by Emine Peker, who was born in Kütahya, one of Turkey's ceramic centers.
Lamb with Quince
Brown 1 chopped onion and 500 grams lamb, cut into small pieces, in 4 tablespoons olive oil. Add 3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses and 1 cup water. Then add 1/2 teaspoon each of ground cinammon, ground allspice and salt and 1/4 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper. Cover and simmer for 1 hour.
In a separate pan brown in 4 tablespoons butter two peeled quince, cut into small pieces, until caramelized. Add the quince, 2 tablespoons brown sugar, a pinch of ground cloves and 1/2 teaspoon of ground cinammon to the stew. Continue simmering uncovered for 30 minutes.
Serve with basmati rice. For perfect rice every time, soak the rice in cold water for several hours. Drain and put into a pan with water that is 1 and 1/2 times the amount of the rice. Cook on high heat until the water has almost evaporated and there are pock marks on the surface of the rice. Turn off the heat and cover the pan tightly for 10 minutes. Fluff up and serve.
If you cannot find pomegranate molasses you can make it yourself: Boil a litre of pure pomegranate juice - best place to find it is in a health food store - with 100 grams of sugar and the juice of one lemon. Simmer for an hour until syrupy.
Where to stay: I stay at the Valide Sultan Konagi, a 17 room hotel of charm. In Ottoman times the Valide Sultan was the name of the sultan's mother. The staff is always ready to help you. The rooms are small, but beautifully kept. The last time I stayed here my room was in the shadow of Saint Sophia, which was just outside my window. The delicious breakfast is copious and interesting and included in the room price. The hotel restaurant serves simple, but often delicious food; try the stuffed vegetables. The filled eggpant, or imam bayaldi - translated as the imam fainted because the dish was so delicious - is indeed very tasty.
Where to eat: To note - food in Istanbul is not overpriced, but wine is. My favorite restaurant is Asitane, away from the center. The restaurant serves traditional Ottoman food, often based on recipes for dishes served in 1539 at the circumcision of the son of Sultan Süleyman. The meze, or first courses, are delicious, carefully prepared and beautifully served - I began with fava bean purée (hummus) and creamed cheese Turkish cuisine, like the cuisine of ancient Rome, often serves fruit with meat. Try the quince stuffed with lamb. Desserts are sublime.
For excellent meze and fish, but not always pleasant service, Balikci Sabahattin in Sultanahmet is a good choice. When I was there with an English speaker the waiters were polite, but when I was there with a French friend, and we were speaking French, the waiters were very rude. The grilled sea bass and rice with mussels are very good.
In one of the hans near the Grand Bazaar, I ate in a tiny restaurant that served only fresh, batter fried anchovies and large, light crepes stuffed with herbs and spinach. The drink was ayran, a yogurt drink that I like but that may not be to everyone's taste. Unfortunately the restaurant had no name. You will have to follow your nose. About 5€ for lunch.
Another inexpensive and always crowded spot, especially at lunch time, near Saint Sophia, is Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi, where you eat köfte - lamb meatballs - white beans, rice and salad. Yummy and inexpensive.
Hamdi, filled with both locals and tourists - large wandering Japanese groups who would not touch their desserts - from its top floor overlooks the Bosphorus and the Galeta Tower. Enjoy the many sorts of kebabs, especially the one of ground lamb with pistachios. The baklava is exceptionally good. The tablecloths are white and the waiters are professional and helpful.
Where to shop: I cannot stay away from the Spice, also known as the Egyptian, Bazaar. I go there everyday just to inhale the smells and to look about me. All kinds of spices and food products are on sale.
The Grand Bazaar is fun, too, but the prices can be exaggerated. For Turkish carpets go to Adnan and Hasan, whose owner speaks perfect English. Do NOT bargain here. The store only sells good quality merchandise.
Food and ceramics are my two weaknesses.
For the best Turkish Delight, or lokum, go to Haci Bekir; there are two locations, one near the New Mosque, near the Spice Bazaar, and the other in Beyoglu.
For beautiful ceramics, often real Iznik, and sometimes just copies of Iznik designs, you cannot go wrong at Fettah, just across from the restaurant Asitane. Look at the beautiful work by Emine Peker, who was born in Kütahya, one of Turkey's ceramic centers.
Lamb with Quince
Brown 1 chopped onion and 500 grams lamb, cut into small pieces, in 4 tablespoons olive oil. Add 3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses and 1 cup water. Then add 1/2 teaspoon each of ground cinammon, ground allspice and salt and 1/4 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper. Cover and simmer for 1 hour.
In a separate pan brown in 4 tablespoons butter two peeled quince, cut into small pieces, until caramelized. Add the quince, 2 tablespoons brown sugar, a pinch of ground cloves and 1/2 teaspoon of ground cinammon to the stew. Continue simmering uncovered for 30 minutes.
Serve with basmati rice. For perfect rice every time, soak the rice in cold water for several hours. Drain and put into a pan with water that is 1 and 1/2 times the amount of the rice. Cook on high heat until the water has almost evaporated and there are pock marks on the surface of the rice. Turn off the heat and cover the pan tightly for 10 minutes. Fluff up and serve.
If you cannot find pomegranate molasses you can make it yourself: Boil a litre of pure pomegranate juice - best place to find it is in a health food store - with 100 grams of sugar and the juice of one lemon. Simmer for an hour until syrupy.
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